Lillehammer 1994

We had a 3-hour road trip in the dark from Norefjell to Lillehammer drinking Villas (Norwegian cream soda) and eating cheap snacks we stocked up on in the UK.  

We had a total of 5 hours in the car that day and 3 hours on the slopes. 

Bringing the flame to the opening ceremonies in style

Our first full day in Lillehammer was reserved for exploring non-alpine venues.  First up was the Ski Jumping Arena, Lysgårdsbakken.  The stadium was where the opening and closing ceremonies took place where, memorably, a ski jumper flew with the Olympic Torch into the ceremony. I also remember from this Olympics the following:

• McDonalds bringing in curly fries for the Lillehammer games (who says sponsorship doesn’t work). 
• Nancy Kerrigan winning silver and the media hype after her rival, Tanya Harding, had one of her “associates” club Kerrigan’s knee.
• The logos for each sport based on local prehistoric cave drawings from 4000 BC of people on skis. 

Lillehammer's petroglyph inspired pictorgrams

In contrast to Holmenkollbakken in Oslo, Lillehammer's jumps
 were built into the hill to shield jumpers from the wind

 

Mike and the 1994 Cauldron, last ignited for the 2016 Youth Winter Games

The Olympic Cauldron is fully intact and has a commanding view of the town.  Below it is the park where the medal ceremonies were held and a little further down the hill from there is Hakons Hall, the primary ice hockey venue and beside that, Kristins Hall. When we were at Lysgårdsbakken Ski Jump there was a group of people who were playing a version of human curling, sliding down the outrun in inner tubes to a circle painted in the flat area.  The tubes with the sliders in them were the stones.  It looks like it could have potential if someone was to bring it back to Canada.

Hakons Hall

Kristins Hall was built in 1988 to promote the Olympic bid. It worked, but it was only used as the training arena for the Games.  It is now the venue of the Lillehammer ice hockey team. When walking around it I got a glimpse of the ice hockey team practicing.  The larger Hakons Hall is now a multipurpose venue, which holds concerts and conventions.  There is also a health club inside complete with a climbing wall.  When we wandered around it appeared it was being used for a Christian themed event, we didn’t go in.   The architecture of Lillehammer’s venues is quite tasteful and has aged well.  Hakons Hall was built into the ground so as not to be too prominent.  The secondary hockey venue Gjovik Olympic Cavern Hall was actually built into the granite; only a small entrance on the surface gives it any presence.  Unfortunately we didn’t go see it.

An extensive collection of medals at the Norwegian Olympic Museum

We also moved on to the Maihaugen, home to the impressive Norwegian Olympic museum, which has a lot of  informative displays about Norway’s two Olympic Games and Norwegian Olympians.  It is no surprise that 80% of the museum space is devoted to the Winter Olympics.   I was most impressed to learn that the Athletes’ Village and Media Centres were largely temporary. All the buildings were made of wood using traditional and prefab construction techniques: many of the buildings were moved then reassembled in other parts of the country, many repurposed as student residences.  The main central building of the Athletes’ Village remained on site to become a seniors home.  The media buildings were removed and the land was returned to agricultural use in little over a year.

Laura and I crossing the finish line on a taxibob.

Finally we moved on to another Winter Olympic staple, the bobsled track. This was going to be a track visit with a difference:  we were going to do it!  We arrived early and filled out the forms.  You were warned not to do it if you had heart or back problems.  Mike prudently decided to drop out.  So Laura and I hopped into a van with our pilot and bobsled.  We were told to breath normally and sit up straight.  I was wedged into the rear position and Laura was in front.   The descent started off gently enough, but after a couple of turns we were really moving.  I inadvertently leaned slightly forward  and my upper back instantly started hurting.  A few more high G turns and it was done!  Laura was banged around up front and in addition to a pin and 5G club certificate, she took home some mighty big bruises on her shoulders as a souvenirs.  The whole run took 56 seconds and cost 995 NOKs! A once-in-a-lifetime activity, for sure.

The view of the downhill course at Kvitfjel in 1994

The following day, Mike and I drove 30 minutes north to Kvitfjel.  I was surprised how much the Lillehammer area looks like the Laurentians in Quebec.  Not as spectacular as the Alps but pleasant nonetheless.  Kvitfjel does not look intimidating from the drive, but on the Downhill course combined with the sheer ice conditions was very tough. It is the first time in a while I fell in the downhill run.  There was a very steep drop that was pure ice, I couldn't even stand up on it.  I was disappointed.  I was really impressed with the quality of the local skiers, they just seemed to bomb down the black downhill ice course like it was a Sunday stroll.  I will remember Kvitfjell for the attractive ski-in ski-out houses and condos.  There was a ski run going all the way down the hill between them.  We had lunch at a collection of quaint log cabin chalets complete with a log fire inside.  It was the first on-piste chalet I have been to with an open wood fireplace. 

Trying to get used to skiing on ice again at Kvitfjel

We rang in the New Year with a wonderful meal at Nikkers.  No, it is not an adult entertainment venue, in fact it is a charming restaurant, with a welcoming fire, great food, and good service, as well as what Laura described as the best vegetarian food she’d had in 5 years.  We went to the hotel and watched the locals take advantage of Norway’s seemingly liberal firework regulations and put on backyard firework displays that would rival most city-run displays in towns in Canada/ UK.  Mike, true to his new Maritime habits, demolished two bottles of champagne while Laura and I split one. 

Hafjell during the Olympics

For New Year’s Day we visited Hafjell, which is 15 minutes north of Lillehammer.   Hafjell was the venue for the slalom and GS events. The views from Hafjell are impressive, but not as grandiose as the Alps.  The cut-out on the opposite hill of the Lillehammer 94 icon was a nice touch.  After an initially very trying introduction to Nordic skiing for Laura (the first hill was steep and icy), we successfully skied for a kilometre or so. I then joined Mike for some Alpine skiing.  Conditions were still icy, but not as bad as the other hills.  High winds closed many of the lifts so we did only a few runs before the sun got very low in the sky (it was just 1500) and we got back on the road to Oslo. 

An introduction to nordic skiing

Traffic was bad on the drive back to Oslo and we were tired.  We did get a glimpse from the highway of the most iconic building of the games, Hamar Hall in Hamar also known as the Vikingskipet ("The Viking Ship") because the roof resembles the keel of a Viking ship.  This was the venue for long track speed skating and it continues to be used for this purpose to this day.

The iconic Vikingskipet in Hamar where long track speed skating was held

Skiing: Bronze

The skiing in Lillehammer, as expected, was an improvement on Norefjell.  The slopes were not that crowded even during the winter holidays. The conditions were not ideal, and naturally we would have a better experience on the hills if they were. However, I don’t think improved conditions would be enough  to push it up to a silver.  With the surroundings and conditions I can’t help but think that Mike flew over the Atlantic for an “East Coast” skiing experience.  Unlike the mega resorts (or if you have a slope side condo) a drive is necessary to the hills. An extra day of skiing would have been nice.  I think Kvitfjel is the national Norwegian ski centre and the skiers there were excellent and could handle the ice slopes in their sleep.

Après Ski: Silver

The word I would use to describe Lillehammer is cosy.  It is not the most beautiful town, but it does feel like the kind of place you could easily enjoy the long Norwegian winter.  The wooden houses, pleasant high street and the smell of numerous log fires makes for a great winter ambience.  In fact I would hazard a guess that winter is probably the favourite season for residents of this town, even if it is 5 months long.  The town does not embrace the lake front, which seems to be an afterthought behind a shopping mall and the railway tracks.

If you are under 30 the Après Ski would definitely be a bronze, this town does not have a raucous party scene.  For those seeking more subdued activities in the evening, there are many pleasant and cosy establishments to enjoy a good meal. 

Laura and I out with all the Lillehammer New Year's Revellers 

Well actually everyone was at home getting ready for massive backyard fireworks displays. 

For those willing to diversify from alpine skiing, the Nordic skiing is world class.  You can easily spend a day at the Maihaugen and Norwegian Olympic Museum.  According to Trip Advisor, the Norwegian Highway Museum outside of town is quite interesting and of course there is a chance to go on a bobsled or skeleton.

Overall: Bronze

Lillehammer is the genuine cosy winter town that many of the manufactured “villages” at the bases of North American mega ski resorts take inspiration from.  Lillehammer was the last small town to host a Winter Olympics and it is impressive a town of this size pulled off one of the most successful Olympics in memory.  It was not down to “statement architecture” (the venues were scalable for post-Olympics Lillehammer) a lot of it by all accounts was down to the organisation, enthusiasm and friendliness of the locals.  We experienced the same unobtrusive friendliness throughout Norway.

The Nikker's Terrace in downtown Lillehammer

I wish the Winter Olympics could be scaled down to allow other smallish alpine towns to host the premier event sports they enjoy day in day out. I think the reality of the Olympics in the 21^st century will mean events will be staged at large cities for the foreseeable future.

Norway is one of my favourite countries; the quality of life and natural beauty are hard to beat. If you can visit it, I highly recommend it.   But, strictly speaking in the confines of the Olympic Tour ski vacations, its entries are not at the top of the table.

On-piste log cabin coffee house (with open wood fire of course)

Marc Says  “Too bad Oslo/Lillehammer withdrew their 2022 bid – they would have done a great job. I like the wooden houses in Lillehammer. Like The Netherlands, it seems to be the norm to keep your curtains and lights on at night so people can see all your wares in your living room and kitchen.  If living in Lillehammer is as idealistic as this, I am in! ”

Mike Says “If you appreciate East Coast quality skiing at Swiss prices...you'll love skiing in Norway!" 

Laura Says  "Ouch my arms!"