Oslo 1952

           

 This Norwegian Olympic trip was fairly ad hoc, and it came together about 6 weeks before we went.  Two days after Christmas, I met Mike and we made our way to LHR.  After the transatlantic red-eye flight, while transferring flights I rendezvoused with a new special guest to the Olympic Tour, Laura.  A 2-hour flight later and we landed at Oslo Airport.  We picked up our Audi A3 rental car, crammed it full of suitcases (mainly my ski gear), and off we went.

Oslo City Hall: the inspiration for the 1952 Games Logo

The Oslo 1952 Games were, like St. Moritz in 1948, recovery Games.  The effects of World War 2 had not fully receded and full-blown Cold War tensions had emerged.  There was some debate whether Germany and Japan should be invited to the Games.  They were, but only West Germany sent a team.  The Soviet Union for whatever reason did not attend. The Oslo Games were a post-war modest and budget-conscious affair.  All of the events except the downhill were within the Oslo City Limits.   Like the controversies that rage around the Games today, in 1952 there was a debate about the cost of hosting the Games.  This theme played again when Oslo 2022 withdrew its bid citing cost and lack of public support.

I decided to stage at Oslo in case we did not all make it on the same flight. We stayed at the thrifty but trendy CityBox. It has self-service check-in with functional but clean rooms right in the centre of Oslo and an excellent bakery adjacent to it.  After navigating Oslo’s underground motorways and maze of one-way streets, we arrived and unloaded. 

 

Jordal Amphi, an Amphitheatre hockey arena.

I had done some research and learned that Oslo’s premier hockey team, Valerenga, had a match that night, over a pizza dinner at the bakery we debated going to the match.  After pizza we had found a second wind and we went to the Jordal Amphi.  This was our first venue on the Olympic Tour.   This was one of the more controversial sites: city politics dictated that the venue be constructed in an old brick quarry rather than a more practical location.  This resulted in the difficulties with the ground work and doubling in construction costs.  The building was quite unique: having been built in the side of a pit, it was built like an amphitheatre, with the seating set in the hill surrounding half the rink and a stage at the other end.  It was a rather odd hockey arena.  I didn’t think of Norway as a hotbed of hockey, so I thought the place would be rather empty; wrong - it was packed!  And we got standing room admission for 200 NOK (£20) The amphi as originally built was terraces (standing) only, no roof but artificial ice.  So I guess we were having an authentic experience.  Unbeknownst to us at the time, it was the penultimate game at the 1952 Jordal Amphi, a little less than two weeks later, the bulldozers would arrive to knock it down to make way for a new Jordal Amphi that will resemble a more conventional hockey arena.

Jordal Amphi in 1952 before the roof was installed in 1971

 

Almost the same view at the penultimate game of the original Jordal Amphi (Dec 29 2016)

The atmosphere inside the old building was great.  It resembled part Canadian Junior A ice hockey game and part Championship football match, complete with chanting.  The match was close and exciting. I was surprised to learn almost all the players were Norwegian with a smattering of Canadians.  I left with a Valerenga scarf and I think we were all glad we went to experience it. Prior to the 1952 Olympics, Olso had no dedicated ice hockey arena. It is a notable and lasting Olympic legacy to see  the local team, Valarenga, so enthusiastically supported 65 years later.

The next morning we got up and had breakfast at the Citybox bakery.  Mike said his apple bun was almost but not quite melon bun good.  We set off on the 2-hour drive to the venue of the Alpine Downhill at Norefjell near Noresund.  It is 130km away from Oslo, the nearest suitable location to Oslo for a downhill race.  Mike occupied himself by counting Teslas, which were plentiful.   We were directed by GPS to the base lodge but the spa I had booked for Laura was at the other side of the hill, so an hour and a private 50NOK toll later, we finally ended up at the correct side of the hill.  I was none too pleased about having to pay a toll to access the other lodge, surely the access road should be covered in the general operational cost!  The Norefjell Ski and Spa was impressively posh. 

Mike and I finally got on the slopes by 1200 so we only got a 3-hour pass.  Our Oslo Olympic Tour was dissected by a trip to Lillehammer. We left  Norefjell to a spectacular sunset which Laura could not experience due to my ski faff in the car blocking her view. 

 

A spectacular 3pm sunset leaving Norefjell

We returned to Oslo on New Year’s Day and stayed at the significantly more up-market Oslo Saga Hotel.  Booking.com said the room rates were over 40% and I can’t refuse a high-end bargain.  Mike went for a late-night walk to scout out potential Dale of Norway locations and explore the city.  

 

Oslo's Royal Palace

The following morning we enjoyed a fabulous breakfast at the Saga Hotel.  I tried some very Norwegian items like tomato mashed mackerel and caviar.  It was pretty good.  Special guest Laura had to catch up on some work while Mike and I went on an Olympic Venue and Norwegian Sweater excursion.   We walked to the nearby Bislett Stadium where the opening ceremonies, speed skating and  figure skating events were held.   From the outside it was a fairly unremarkable stadium which appears to be used for track and field.   The Oslo Olympics were Games of many firsts. They were the first Olympics to have artificial ice at Jordal Amphi.  Bislett Stadium was where the Olympic (Oslo) flag was first raised and handed off between host city mayors, and where the first Winter Olympic torch relay, which was done entirely on skis, ended. 

 

The Original "Oslo Flag" from 1952 at the Norwegian Olympic Museum

Mike was impressed with Oslo’s vibe, it is apparent that Norwegians enjoy a good quality of life and are quite relaxed, even in the capital city.  We went to the iconic Oslo City Hall, which essentially was the Games’ logo . We went to the equally iconic and recently opened Oslo Opera House, which has the some of the most impressive public toilets anywhere.  

 

Holmenkollbakken ready for th iney Olympics 1952

Holmenkollbakken 2017

On our way to the airport we went to Holmenkollbakken and The Ski Museum.  It is on the top of the mountain overlooking Oslo and we were rewarded with impressive views on our visit.  Ski jumping, biathlon and cross country skiing were held in the area.  Slalom skiing was held on the same mountain but on the other side.  100 000 spectators crammed themselves into the stadium to watch the ski jumping here during the 1952 Olympics.

Some of the 100 000 who came to watch ski jumping at the 1952 Olympics

Ski Stadium area now

The current stadium, completed in 2011, is probably the most impressive we have seen on the Olympic Tour.  It has capacity for 70 000 spectators and it looks like the ski jumper jumps into a giant bowl.   There is also a comprehensive ski museum at the base of the jump which is included in the tower admission price.

Skiing: Bronze

Mike and I didn’t start the day until 1200 and skied for only 3 hours. Normally I would be really disappointed in skiing for only half a day, but after skiing for 3 hours I felt I had seen enough.  T-bars are the dominant means of getting up the hill and there was only one high-speed quad.  The runs were crowded with very mature (ice) snow. I had not skied on true East Coast conditions for years and I was disappointed how cautious I was. It probably didn’t help that my skis haven’t been sharpened in 4 years. 

Norefjell

I did what I thought was the Olympic Downhill run based on the name of the piste. However, reviewing  the Olympic Committee report and judging by the 1952 Downhill start hut location we found, I think the Downhill course was abandoned and I ended up on the Giant Slalom course.  It was still quite long by today’s standards.   

The only evidence of the Olympics at Norefjell, the 1952 downhill start hut

We tried skiing the red runs near the ski and spa but the T-bar was closed for an extended period so we left, not entirely satisfied with our day on the slope.   Meanwhile, Laura was having hot rocks placed on her and had a very relaxing afternoon in a true Scandinavian spa.

Après Ski: Silver

This rating is for Oslo as we based ourselves there; if it was based on Norefjell only, it would be a bronze. There would be some activities at the luxurious Norefjell Ski and Spa but it would be confined to this venue and it would be expensive.

Oslo  is an attractive city, with a good quality of life.  There are lots of things to do and like Sapporo it seems to embrace the winter lifestyle. There are lots of good museums we didn’t have a chance to visit but all in all a city in impressive natural surroundings with an even more impressive quality of life. 

Bislett Stadion: The venue for the opening & closing ceremonies, speed skating and figure skating. 

Bislett Stadion Today

Overall: Bronze

The ambience of Oslo can’t make up for the basic skiing at Norefjell and the distance to the hill.   Oslo is a great city for reasons other than skiing; everything just seems sorted.  I feel the high cost of things here is both a blessing and a curse.  If it was cheap I feel it could be inundated with tourists, a Spain of the North and the atmosphere would be gone. Just be prepared to punish your wallet and bring the maximum amount of duty free if you plan on having a few libations.

Oslo's new opera house

During the selection of the 1952 Olympics, the other candidate cities went well over their allotted time.  The presenter on behalf of Oslo said he would be quick.  He gave a 4-minute speech outlining why Oslo should be the host city.  Oslo won on the first round.  It is clear 65 years later that Oslo would still be a good host city; the country embraces winter sports and an active lifestyle.  It is too bad the 2022 bid collapsed, Oslo could have pulled off a great Games using existing infrastructure. However, if the public and politicians didn’t support it, it was probably for the best.

Marc Says

“When I visit Oslo I am always impressed by the Nordic system, as it seems to give its citizens the best quality of life.  Why can’t it be replicated elsewhere?  I am not impressed that Mike did not get a £250 Dale of Norway Norwegian Sweater, he copped out with an indistinct tuque and scarf.  I bet he regrets it. Welcome Laura to the Olympic Tour!”

Mike Says

“I am going to get a Dale of Norway Norwegian sweater. 2500 NOKs!?! On second thoughts I will get the tuque.”  

Laura Says

I like hot rocks and sunsets (at noon). Go Valerenga!